420/44 DB Owners Club

[AEO]

Glad to let you know how I use the Starlink...!

It is an RV unit. We never use it underway or rely on the internet for navigation.

I have a 300 Watt inverter that I power it with. The heater is off but it still draws some power. That is why I am upping the battery count on the Starboard side. I plug the base unit into the inverter that is plugged into the cigarette lighter outlet at the helm. I have a spare "rocket launcher" fishing rod holder mounted to the rail on the bow...about 8 feet back from the anchor for the antenna. This way, it might not be blocked by the bridge when we swing on anchor. We never have had an issue with connection.

I have not figured out a clever way to rout the cable out to the bow. The cable is fed out through the canvas and along the deck to the antenna. Not the best but it works. I have also just put it between the dash and the cabinet on the Starboard side of the helm.

I know the routing from the helm to the area behind the TV and Stereo in the salon but forward from there is a mystery. I guess I could get it to the area behind the 110v outlet in the galley. Dunno about from there forward and then out to the deck.

Cheers!

Thanks for that info. I’ll wait for the unit to arrive and see how big it is. I’m thinking of utilising the redundant TV antenna mount on the radar arch and run a cable to an inverter in bridge.

 

[Bruce SEA 993]

I would like to have my Starlink antenna mounted to the radar arch but I want to reserve the ability to quickly remove it and bring it home. Unlacing the canvas, while not technically difficult, is time consuming and not something I like doing.

I unlaced the front to replace the radar with the new Garmin and the aft to replace the anchor light...and clean everything.

There are some who have disabled the tilt and rotating functions and mounted inside of a 24 inch KVH dome. There are also mounts being sold that hold the mast of the antenna securely.

Cheers!

 

[Irie308]

I would like to have my Starlink antenna mounted to the radar arch but I want to reserve the ability to quickly remove it and bring it home. Unlacing the canvas, while not technically difficult, is time consuming and not something I like doing.

I unlaced the front to replace the radar with the new Garmin and the aft to replace the anchor light...and clean everything.

There are some who have disabled the tilt and rotating functions and mounted inside of a 24 inch KVH dome. There are also mounts being sold that hold the mast of the antenna securely.

Cheers

Amen on not wanting to unlace the canvas up top. Not my favorite thing to to do but i do it once a year when I take down my panels for storage. That being said I mounted my starlink up top and in the flat position with a custom mount. I can lean out the window and remov

e if needed without removing the canvas. A bit tricky but its removable within a few mins. There are set screws that hold it to the custom mount. This was done by @MasterFab and he can pretty much make anything you want. Coupled pics of my setup.

 

[Bruce SEA 993]

Irie308, that looks really nice. Did you disable the tilt/rotate yourself? It gives me the willies to go at the antenna with a hole saw!

I like your idea of going out the window to reach the arch. My life insurer, my wife, would kill me if I tried to kill myself by going out the window...maybe it is not as risky as it sounds!! Visions of bouncing off the railing before hitting the dock or the water...

Edit: I just said "I could stand on the storage locker and reach up...". I really got the stink eye for that one...

Cheers!

 

[Irie308]

Irie308, that looks really nice. Did you disable the tilt/rotate yourself? It gives me the willies to go at the antenna with a hole saw!

I like your idea of going out the window to reach the arch. My life insurer, my wife, would kill me if I tried to kill myself by going out the window...maybe it is not as risky as it sounds!! Visions of bouncing off the railing before hitting the dock or the water...

Edit: I just said "I could stand on the storage locker and reach up...". I really got the stink eye for that one...

Cheers!

Haha...hanging out that window is not the best option and I hate to admit I've done it a time or two. In my installation i removed the motor completely. In the attached photo which I helped a friend with this past weekend. We drilled a hole and unplugged the motor. This mount pictured is @MasterFab's refined version of my original idea. This setup is less intrusive however we did have to use a pipe cutter to remove the mast leaving the motor disabled but intact. You can see where we had to drill the hole. There is a water tight grommet here but he felt better adding a layer of tape. Not necessary though as the rubber grommet is a pretty tight fit.

 

[Bruce SEA 993]

I have a MY COPILOT made by Carpe Diem that came with our boat from the previous owner. I will remotely operate the thruster and shift the transmissions FWD and AFT so you can maneuver the boat from anywhere close.

I am not ever going to install this nor am I interested in using it. I would like to offer it up to this group as I think it specific to our 44 Sedan Bridges.

I think they were about $700 so make me an offer!

Cheers!

 

[cls3934]

I am trying to remove dinette seating on my 2007 44db. removed all screws I can find and thought it would just slide on out. Apparently, not the case. Anyone out there that has done this and can offer some advice?

 

[saopm]

What size rudder packing is used on these boats?

I have a little play in my port rudder. At least a little more than my starboard. Any advice on what to do to tighten it up?

 

[Craig2002]

What size rudder packing is used on these boats?

I have a little play in my port rudder. At least a little more than my starboard. Any advice on what to do to tighten it up?

Is it fore - aft / side to side play or up - down?
Fore - aft / side to side could mean a worn rudder block assembly.
Up - down could mean the top nut is coming loose.
Or is it rotational play? That could loose / worn clevis attachment from the steering ram.

 

[saopm]

Is it fore - aft / side to side play or up - down?
Fore - aft / side to side could mean a worn rudder block assembly.
Up - down could mean the top nut is coming loose.
Or is it rotational play? That could loose / worn clevis attachment from the steering ram.

Good info, I only checked forward and aft. I’ll check up and down and side to side next time I’m out there. Rotational should be good, but will double check.

I’m wondering if I shimmed it “up” or repacking will make a difference. Is the rudder shaft tapered to fit into the stuffing box tightly?

 

[Irie308]

Seems no matter what i've done I still have a little bit of play in the 2 Garelick helms seats. The play seems to be in the pedestal as I've confirmed the seat base is bolted firmly and the pad to the deck is also mounted firmly. Anyone else successfully remove all play from these seats?

 

[SeasNT]

When we purchased the boat noticed the port seat had too much play. Took it off the base to find a bolt sheared off. Fixed it. Every SeaRay Garelick I have even seen always moved a small amount.

 

[Alex F]

Seems no matter what i've done I still have a little bit of play in the 2 Garelick helms seats. The play seems to be in the pedestal as I've confirmed the seat base is bolted firmly and the pad to the deck is also mounted firmly. Anyone else successfully remove all play from these seats?

Hey Dean,

From my experience, tightening the bolts will reduce the play. However, turning the seat will be much harder. I've balanced the captain seat to the point where the play is reasonable and turning the seat is not too stiff as well.